|
[
Introduction to
Plant Propagation
from Cuttings ]
Find ANY thing you want to know, see: [ SITE
MAP ]
[Dry Dip Rooting Powders]
[Dry Dip Demonstration]
[Rooting Solutions]
[Plant Selection]
[Plant Care]
[ROSES]
Discussion
Forum
Topics
Topic: Effects of magnetic fields on plant growth
Moderators note: the following message
was sent to Hortus USA and then forwarded to the Plant-hormones discussion group
From:
HS
Hi, I'm a junior form a High School in Pennsylvania and am currently undertaking a fun and
interesting (well, that's what I think, anyway) science fair project. The first fair is
this Saturday, so recently I've been thinking quite a bit about my project. However, today
I sort of had a revelation (for a lack of a better word to describe it)
concerning my
results; it may ultimately affect my conclusion. That's where you come in. I don't have
enough of a background in biochemistry, especially plant hormones to do anything but make
educated guesses as to why my results occurred the way they did. I had asked my A.P. Chem
II teacher her opinion and she wasn't able to answer me. So, if you will, kindly
read my abstract from last year and then my summary of my research for this year so far.
Perhaps you can give me some insights into the world of plant hormones and the like.
Thanks from a grateful student!!
Effect of a Magnetic Field on the Growth of Spinach(1996-1997 research)
-I ended up doing fairly well with this project---- 1st regional PJAS, 1st state PJAS,
H.M. County fair, 1st H.M. del. val. science fair.---
This project in its present form is the result of magnetic field experimentation on the
growth of the spinach plant (Avon Hybrid). The problem of this project was to determine if
a magnetic field would have any affect on plant growth. To test the hypothesis,
thirty spinach plants were exposed to a southern magnetic field, thirty were exposed
to a northern magnetic >field, and thirty plants were used as the control. Ferrite
based permanent magnets were placed 8 cm away from the plants. All the plants were placed
in the same room and were exposed to ten hours of fluorescent lighting per day. Records of
the heights of the plants were taken every five days until experimentation concluded after
twenty-five days. At the conclusion of experimentation, the south group ended up
having the greatest average height per plant of 4.8 cm. The control group followed
with an average of 3.9 cm per plant, and finally, the north group with an average growth
per plant of 2.3 cm.
In summation, therefore, the magnetic field
did affect plant growth to both extremes. The northern field arrested life, while
the southern field encouraged or increased life. The magnets might have in some way
affected the production of growth hormones (auxins and cytokinin) within the plant. The
north pole could have limited the production, and the south pole could have increased
production. In the future, scientists may be able to increase crop yields by
subjecting their plants to a southern magnetic field.
As for this year, my
research plan is below. It is a continuation from last year with a few
significant changes( more plants--- to test validity of results, different light
sources--perhaps they will have an effect, magnets suspended from above
--- giving a more even distribution of the magnetic field).
Research Plan
Problem
Does a magnetic field affect the growth of a spinach (avon hybrid) plant?
Hypothesis
If a magnetic field is placed in close proximity to a spinach plant, then the plant will
demonstrate differences from normal growth properties depending on whether the field
emanates from a south or north pole of a magnet. The plants exposed to the field emanating
from the south pole will grow the tallest, followed by the control group, and lastly, the
group exposed to the northern magnetic field.
Procedure
Plant two different groups of plants numbering 198 total plants: Group one will be
exposed to fluorescent lighting, while group two will be exposed to incandescent lighting.
Each group will consist of three different subgroups. Subgroup S will contain spinach
plants exposed to a magnetic field emanating from the south pole of a bar magnet. Subgroup
N will contain spinach plants exposed to a magnetic field emanating from the north pole of
a bar magnet. All bar magnets will have the same strength. Subgroup C will be the control,
and it will not be exposed to any magnetic field. Each subgroup will contain 33
plants, thus, each group will contain 99 plants; there will be two groups. Suspend
the bar magnets 15 cm. above each group. Place magnetic field shielding around all
plants so only the magnetic field assigned to that specific group can interact with it.
Measure the magnetic fields around the plants. Grow plants for 40 days.
Record height of plants and other observations of growth every 5 days. Water the
plants daily. . Collect the data.. Analyze the data and prepare a conclusion (perform a
T-test on the data, and calculate the mode, mean, and median of each group).
I am still collecting the data from this year, however, it seems that the north and south
groups from both light sources are of almost the same average height above the soil, maybe
the south is a little ahead( I haven't added it up yet) . The growth of the control plants
is below that of the north and south groups. As for the next step in the experiment,
I am going to eventually weigh the plants to determine the masses
(another way to compare
growth between groups) and to perform some statistical analyses. (Oh, by the way, if you
wouldn't mind, could you give me a brief overview of how to perform a T-test[I have the
software, but am uncertain what it will accomplish]).
So now you've read this, and you're probably asking yourself why in the world did
this high- schooler send this letter to you. Right... Well, I believe that somehow the
auxins in the plant was involved in the excelled growth of the south plants from last year
and perhaps this year. Is indole3 acetic acid paramagnetic? Could that be the reason for
my results? Would the magnetic properties of this hormone allow it to be produced more
readily, thus affecting the growth of the plants? Anyway, I think that's it for now.
I really appreciate the time that you took to read this. Thanks so much.
Sincerely,
HS
REPLY 1
Dear H,
Before you can state that you have any effect at all, magnetic or not, you must do
the stat's. You may have differences in height but if they are not statistically
significant you have no effect. Any basic statistics book will tell you how to do a T
test, to check for differences between your 3 groups an ANOVA would be better. If
you have software for a T test you may have the capability for an ANOVA. This will
tell you if there is a significant difference between groups and where these differences
lie. Run these before you start looking for exotic explanations for effects which
may not be there.
PH
Dept of Biological Sciences
Dundee University
Dundee
DD1 4HN
REPLY 2
Dear H,
I've read the description of your research project on the effect of magnetic fields on
plant growth and would like to give you some input on your work.
The application and testing of magnetic fields is not an easy matter. One needs to
understand whether you want to test the presence/effect of a magnetic field in general or
of a magnetic gradient. When you want to test effects of magnetic fields the field
intensity is relevant and the difference between the magnetic N & S poles is not
important. If you want to test the effect of magnetic gradients then the situation is
different because magnetic gradients can induce so-called 'ponderomotive forces' that
affect biological material. However since biological material has a small magnetic
susceptibility (regardless of their diamagnetic or paramagnetic properties) the forces are
insignificant UNLESS you use a VERY STRONG gradient. Common magnets do not generate forces
that affect biological systems. (There are exceptions to that rule and if you don't mind
reading up on this, see Planta 198: 87-94 or Journal of Experimental Botany 48:
1951-1957).
Your (probably more carefully designed) 2. Year experiment appears to show no difference
between your treatments. This is in line with our experiments, (for different reasons) we
have exposed plants to extremely strong uniform magnetic fields and not observed
differences in growth. However, (strong) magnetic gradients induce curvature in roots and
shoots. Unfortunately, there are many investigations on magnetic effects that are not
appropriately designed but certainly fascinating. Most of the time some (irreproducible)
result is attributed to the presence of magnets, magnetic fields or the direction relative
to the earth's magnetic field at which plants are sowed.
Factors that could explain your observed differences (if statistically relevant) in your
first experiment most likely have to do with shading since light levels strongly influence
elongation growth. However, not knowing the size of your magnets and chambers this is
difficult to assess.
Hope that helps!
KH
Biology - Univ. SW Louisiana
Lafayette, LA 70504-2451
To Top of Page
Topic: Use of clay pots in propagation
Moderators note: the following
note was re forwarded to the SEEDS-L list for comments
Only one comment on years of rooting plants
(usually successful). I have terrible luck with clay pots for rooting cuttings. When the
plant has started rooting and my plastic cover is removed, I seldom water often enough to
keep the soil moist. Often the soil changes from being noticeably wet (by appearance and
touch) to dry in an hour or less. The plant immediately dies. I have never had this
problem with plastic pots or flats.
Best Regards,
BH
Dear B,
The rooting in clay pots is successful be course the rooting process needs very much air
(O2). In the clay pot respiration is possible and that gives a good rooting result. When
you take of the plastic cover the clay pot will evaporate and that means that it uses much
water. So the solution is give your clay pots as much water as they need and transplant
the rooted cuttings as soon as possible.
Please contact us if you need more info .
regards,
Kees Eigenraam
Rhizopon bv Holland
Dear
B
This sounds like a problem related to sterilizing the clay pot before you plant. Perhaps
you are carrying in pathogens. Are you successful using the plastic pots?
Three things might be happening:
The clay pots are used and are leeching salts back into the soil.
The moistures leeching out the sides of the pots-clay acts like a wick.
Or like you said pathogens are invading from the clay.
Clay pots are made of porous material. They
effectively wick moisture out of the soil. This is a common problem made more noticeable
with the advent of modern commercial potting soil and the components that make it up.
Change to plastic pots and the problem will be alleviated. Or if one is a diehard purist
for traditional pots, paint the inside of the clay pot with a sealer that stops the
porosity of the pot.
regards
Support Services
Hortus USA Corp
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 06:08:08 -0800
From: DP
Greenhouse Nursery
Port Angeles, WA 98362
Subject: Re: Propagation of cuttings using
clay pots. Can't help but wonder, have the plants gradually been removed from the moist
rooting environment (i.e. the propagator, be it a plastic bag, or what have you)? You need
to sort of harden off the rooted cuttings and once rooted, move to an area with a lower
temperature. I have hundreds of seedlings started in the basement and I have to move them
to a cooler area of the basement or I would have to water much more frequently. I have
lost more than one flat to inconsistent watering.
G
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 10:27:36 -0500
To Top of Page
Topic: Plant tropisms and the
hormone auxin
Moderators note: the following message was
received by this forum and forwarded to SEEDS-L for comments
Subject: Plant Hormones
I am doing a project on the effects of dissorientation on plant growth. I am
rotating the plant on its side on a rotissere skewer. What is the scientific proof of
dissorientating the plant. Our teacher says it has something to do with Plant Tropisms and
the hormone Auxin. Please help me with links or information. Thank you
RR
Tue, 24 Mar 1998 03:03:38 -0800
"Gravitropism", like "phototropism," is a differential growth
response caused by a redistribution of auxin in the translocation stream. This is a rather
complex subject that has been explained by many theories. The common theory (held by the
general teaching staff here at OSU) is that starch containing membranes called
"amyloplasts" will settle to the lowest side of the plant cell. The weight of
the amyloplasts is great enough for gravity to draw them down through the cell cytoplasm.
Here, on the lower side of the cell, the presence of the amyloplasts induces a response of
auxin production which then affects growth.
The direction of growth depends on many things:
1. Type of cell: root, shoot, leaf, flower, etc.
2. Concentration of other hormones like gibberellin, cytokinin, abscisic acid, and
ethylene.
3. Stage of growth: germination, vegetative, reproductive.
4. Availability of other important compounds: water, nutrients.
Some key words for gravity-related growth:
orthogravitropic: the parallel alignment of growth with the direction of the
pull of gravity, roots down, stems up.
positive (ortho)gravitropism: the growth of plant tissue towards the
center of the earth, primary roots for example.
negative (ortho)gravitropism: the growth of plant tissue away from the
center of the earth, is in the principle shoot axis (top of the plant).
diagravitropism: the growth of plant tissue at right angles to the pull of
gravity. These would be stolons, rhizomes, and some lateral branches.
plagiogravitropism: the growth of plant tissue at angles between 0 and 90
degrees to the pull of gravity. These would be lateral stems and lateral roots.
agravitropic: plants which show little or no sensitivity to gravity.
HOPE THIS HELPS!
LP
Department of Horticulture and Crop Science
The Ohio State University www.hcs.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 08:18:54 -0500 (EST)
To Top of Page
Topic: Germination of green
coffee beans (and care of coffee plants)
Do you know if green coffee beans, those used by a coffee roaster shop, are
viable and will they germinate? (Assume the coffee roasting shop has fresh
stock.)
How long can a green bean be kept before they lose viability?
If so, what are the germination requirements?
regards
Support Services
Hortus USA Corp
The raw or green coffee beans will be viable for one year or more. Usually are sowed
two beans per plastic bag (here in Brazil we use small 1/2 pint holed black plastic
bags). Water them 3 times/week. Let them in the shadow until the first true leaves
come out in the seedlings. Thereafter you can take into the sun. 8-10 inches seedlings are
ready to be transplanted to their definitive site (the distance between plants will
be 80 cm and 200 cm betwenn rows).
Good luck.
AC in Brazil
Subject: Re: Coffee bean
Sun, 05 Apr 1998 21:17:59 +0000
No they are not viable. Coffee berries are fermented right after harvest and this
damages the beans. I know, I've tried.
Your best bet is to get seed from a tropical seed specialist like The Banana Tree in
Pennsylvania. (Sorry. I do not have the address. Check the Internet Yellow Pages. I think
they have a listing.) I germinated a few beans years ago and I remember that they were
pretty easy.
RG
Coffee plants make good potted plants with a little care. They do best in a bright room
without direct sunlight. They like a moist soil but don't like overwatering. They are not
really dormant during winter but you are right to keep watering to a minimum during this
time. After they bloom and start growing again, they should be given a bit of dilute
fertilizer from time to time. Also watch for spider mites. An occasional
"pritzing" of the leaves is useful. The plants should never be allowed to become
very pot-bound, otherwise their leaves turn *yellow and drop*.
DG
California Rare Fruit Growers
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 17:36:57 +0000
To Top of Page
Topic: How old is a
cutting when it grows?
A bit of an odd question: How old is a cutting when it grows? Eg., if I cut a 2
year old twig from a 5 year old shrub, is the cutting 0 years (just born), 2 years (the
twig), or 5 years (the parent plant)?
The reason I ask, is that I grew a Gardenia thunbergia from a truncheon taken off a mature
bush, i.e. flowering maturity. These gardenias don't flower when they're young. This
cutting, small as it was, flowered within a year or two, simultaneously ...
Regards, M
From: MV
The principle that you are talking about is relative to the Cone of Juvenality
which is discussed in all books about propagation.
Lets say you have a plant which is ten years old since it was propagated from seed or a
cutting. Every year the plant sets out new shoots. We ask, how old are the various
shoots? While all the new shoots have the same age of growth they are physiologically
different in 'real' age. In terms of juvenality: The cuttings taken from
the top are really 'ten years old'. The cuttings taken
from the base are really 'this years age'.
What can we say about the ability to propagate from these cuttings?
Say you have a fast growing ficus tree. When you take cutting from the top of the tree
they they *may* have less ability to root from cuttings then the younger cuttings taken
from the base.
How do we have control?
- One way is to *hedge* the plant ... cut it down to near the base then
take cuttings from the lowered plant.
- Another way is to *stool* as they do with malus and prunus root stocks.
The plants are layed down and covered. New shoots form along the trail of the older shoots
under the ground.
In propagation of poinsetta and chrysamthem and pot roses the cuttings are take from
very young plants. The propagator takes cuttings from mother plant which are seldom
older than half year. The mother plants are discarded after half a year and replaced
with cuttings taken from the young plants.
One observed factor is that the more juvenile plants need more control of their
environment yet produce roots faster and more evenly than the older plants. Many plants
can not produce roots from cuttings from the upper parts of the plants since they are too
old. In that case use the cuttings from the shoots taken from the base.
The general practice is to use as young a cutting as possible.
In the case that you site ... say you have a plant which flowers only after a certain
number of years. It you take cuttings from the upper portion of the plant these cuttings
are the same age as the mother plant therefore they will produce flowers on the freshly
propagated cutting.
regards
Support Services
Hortus USA Corp
To Top of Page
Topic: How are tropical
fruits commercially propagated?
Moderators note: This discussion
page has had several requests for information on the propagation of citrus and other
tropical fruits. The following discussion was written by Dr. Manners who teaches plant
science and citrus growing.
Perhaps I can at least partially answer your question about rooting tropical fruit
trees.
Mango:
To my knowledge, no one ever roots them from cuttings. Until relatively recently, even
marcottage has been considered nearly impossible. In the magazine Tropical Fruit
World, Vol. 1, No. 3, (July/August, 1990) is an article by Adriano Lambe, about work done
at the University of Florida Tropical Research Center, by Roberto Nunez-Elisea and Tom
Davenport, in which they successfully marcotted mangos, using a 2-3% NAA in lanolin paste,
with good success. This is the only such case I'm aware of. Otherwise, mango seems always
to be grafted to seedling rootstocks, or grown directly from seed.
Carambola:
Again, I've never heard of anyone successfully rooting cuttings. Marcots do work, but
at a relatively low rate of success. Virtually all commercial trees are grafted or budded
to seedling rootstocks.
Mangosteen:
To my knowledge, NO vegetative means of propagation has ever worked, for this fruit.
That is most frustrating, since seedlings have a juvenile period of 10-20 years, before
fruiting for the first time. A successful vegetative method would revolutionize mangosteen
production!
Papaya:
These are easily rooted, but it's rather impractical, since the trees tend to have only
one main trunk (like a palm) or at most a few branches, and individual stems are several
inches in diameter. So the logistics of taking multiple cuttings of a plant without
destroying the plant, are difficult to say the least. Nevertheless, papaya will root
without difficulty, if you do take cuttings. I'm not aware of what, if any, plant growth
regulators are used.
Longan:
Like its close relative, the lychee, longans are extraordinarily difficult (practically
impossible) from cuttings. No method has ever yielded acceptable numbers of rooted plants.
On the other hand, marcottage in early summer, with or without any growth regulator, is
highly successful, and is the basis for propagating these fruits commercially, in Florida.
We make our marcots in June. Using [dry powder rooting hormone] get nearly 100% success
that way. I suspect that the trouble with cuttings, here, is the long time needed to root
(3-4 months), and the consequent difficulty with keeping fungi from rotting the cutting
during that period.
Atemoya (hybrids of Annona cherimoya by A. squamosa):
I've never heard of anyone trying to root these. Surely someone has, but it isn't even
considered in Florida. They seem always to be grafted or budded to seedling atemoya or A.
squamosa rootstocks. Even marcottage doesn't seem ever to be used in Florida.
Well, those are the fruits with which I've had personal experience with propagation. By
the way, the rose apple in your note had (name?) after it. It is Syzygium jambos. As far
as I know, they are always grown from seed, as are all the Syzygiums and closely related
Eugenias, genera which apparently have virtually no ability to produce adventitious roots.
I hope this will be helpful. Please feel free to contact me if I can help further. The
propagation of tropical fruits has always been fascinating to me, and I've worked quite a
lot in that area, especially in grafting/budding methods. So many of the tropicals are
frustrating because they are so resistant to successful rooting of cuttings. We need some
success stories!
Sincerely,
MM
Florida Southern College
111 Lake Hollingsworth Drive
Lakeland, FL 33801-5698
To Top of Page
Topic: I have a cutting from
a walnut tree
I have taken a 1/2" diameter, 6-7" long branch (with no leaves or
obvious buds on it) from the base of a black walnut I am trying to bonsai. I did not want
to throw away the branch if there was any chance of rooting it again and at the moment
have it just in water (2 days). Should I bother trying to root it or not? And, if so, how?
CW
Chester Canada
Dear C,
Your cuttings are not suitable for rooting. Jurgans (walnuts) are propagated from seed or
they are grafted onto suitable root stocks. If you have some walnut seedlings you might
try to top graft the stem (scion) onto the seeding (root stock). Nothing to lose.
regards
Support Services
Hortus USA Corp
To Top of Page
Topic: Propagation of hosta
I would like a recommendation for the use of your product with hosta leaf
cuttings. Powder or tablets?
Media??
Thank you
WB
Dear Wolf
Hosta are usually propagated from division of the clumps. Sometimes from seed ... however
some plants do not produce capsules.
We do not have very much direct information on the use of plant rooting hormones
to propagate hostas.
When is the best time to plant, and/or divide hosta? Hosta can be planted at any time
during the growing season, although most people try to plant hosta in the spring. The
later in the season you plant a hosta, the more important it is to keep the plant
adequately watered.
Hosta may also be divided or moved at anytime. However, given the increased shock to
the plant caused by dividing or digging it up to be moved, spring is much preferred. In
fact, it is recommended that dividing occur before the plant begins any substantial spring
growth. Once the eyes are evident, the plant should be dug and divided by using a sharp
knife. It is also recommended that the knife be dipped in a fungicide (e.g. 10%
Clorox-water solution is a good substitute) before making the cut, and that the cut
surface be dusted (or washed if using bleach) after the cut is made.
We are not certain if rooting hormone treatment will benefit the fibrous root
regeneration on the division. We will refer this to a hosta expert.
Wolf, unfortunately the web sites related to hosta societies all recommend division.
Where did you learn rooting of cuttings? Perhaps you can back track to the original source
regards
Support Services
Hortus USA Corp
Thanks for responding. I am familiar with the standard way of separating the root
rhizomes. I however also am under the impression that Hosta leaf cuttings will
develop roots if left in water for a period of time. I was wondering if your root growth
hormone would accelerate this process or am I under the wrong impression regarding root
growth from Hosta leaf cuttings?
If my impressions are correct, what concentration should I use? Tablets/powder to
volume of water???
Thank you
W
To Top of Page
Topic: I have some very old
(80+ yrs) azaleas that I want to propagate.
I have some very old (80+ yrs) azaleas that I want to propagate. My reasons are
partly emotional (the plants were planted by my grandmother) and partly subjective
(they're a gorgeous color that I've never seen in stores).
I would like to know the best ways to take cuttings of azaleas, including what's the best
time of year to take them and what's the most appropriate rooting hormone. I'd appreciate
any samples you can provide.
After the bushes are (hopefully!) growing in pots, I'd like to know when is the best time
of year to plant them.
Finally, do you know how I can find out exactly what type of azalea I have?
Thank you very much!
Julia
from New Jersey
Dear Julia,
To propagate any plant which is a bit old you must consider that the best part of the
plant to take cuttings is from the youngest section. In the case of an 80 year old azalea
the fresh sprouts on the top of the plant are the oldest ... they will be 80 years old
even through they are physically only from this years growth.
The cuttings which behave as the youngest part of the plant are those taken from the
base of the plant. These are the ones to use in propagating new plants.
The following excerpt is an excellent description
of juvenile plants taken from 'Donor Plant Maturation and Adventitious Root Formation' by
Wesley Hackett in Adventitious Root Formation in Cuttings (Davis, Haissig and Sankhla),
Dioscorides Press, 1988.
Quoting Mr. Hacket:
One of the characteristics which has been observed
to change in many species with developmental age is potential for adventitious root
initiation. It has frequently been observed that rooting ability of cuttings from many
woody plant species, particularly tree species, declines with increasing age of
seedling-derived mother plants.
- In 1929 the researcher Gerner observed "this inverse
relationship between ontogenetic age and rooting ... and has since been observed
repeatedly.
- High adventitious rooting potential, therefore, is
considered a juvenile characteristic. The loss of rooting potential with maturation is
particularly severe in many long lived tree species and limits the success or efficiency
in clonally propagating desirable mature individuals (after the expenditure of much time
and effort in the evaluation and selection process).
- In 1985 Mulling found that " In vitro microcutting
propagation as well as conventional cuttage propagation is limited by this decreased
potential for rooting.
Where it has been possible to analyze changes in
rooting potential associated with ontogenetic development, it has been shown that the
upper and peripheral parts of a plant are the first to exhibit reduced rooting potential.
- Paton et al. in 1970 demonstrated that in Eucalyptus grandis
seedlings that the cotyledonary node has a very high rooting potential but by the 15th
node rooting capacity is almost completely lost.
- In Olea europaea L. (Porlingis and Therios 1976) and Picea
abies (L.) Karst. (Roulund 1973), it has also been reported that cuttings taken from
shoots formed in the basal region or lower portion of the crown of trees have a higher
capacity to root than those from shoots in the more distal, upper portions of the same
plant.
- As Hackett reported in 1985, these findings are not
surprising in light of many studies showing that other characteristics such as
phyllotaxis, leaf shape, leaf retention, thorniness, and pigmentation, which are
associated with juvenility, are maintained in the basal portions of mature plants of many
species.
... it is difficult to distinguish between the
phenomena of maturation and physiological aging, and, therefore, some of
the results of investigations involving loss or gain in rooting potential may be related
to physiological age rather than maturation.
Take cuttings from this years growth ... wait until the stems become a bit hardened ...
perhaps late June or early July.
Use dry dip or solution methods:
DRY DIP METHOD: see Dry Dip Method. Try for
early season- Rhizopon AA #1 or #2. Try for later in the season- Rhizopon #2 or #3
SOLUTIONS: see Using Solutions. Try the Total
Immerse Method at 5 tablets per liter water
Be sure to carefully care for the cuttings; see:
Plant
Selection
Transplanting from pots to the ground can be done at any time if you are careful not to
disturb the roots. Commonly most transplanting is done in the winter dormant season if the
roots are to be disturbed. If you transplant during the active growing season you
might want to improve root mass regeneration.
Treat transplants already in the media by soil drench. Use one tenth to one half tablet
per liter of water. You can also spray the plugs, balls or bare roots after taking the
plants out of a propagation tray, or dip whole plug or ball in solution until fully
saturated. After treating roots optionally spray the leaves lightly using one half to one
tablet per liter of water. See:
Transplanting Rooted Plants
regards,
Support Services
Hortus USA Corp
To Top of Page
Topic:
Survival of rooted walnut cuttings
Hello
I have a
particular application, namely improving survival of rooted walnut cuttings. After much
trial and error we have been able to obtain decent rooting in several genotypes of walnut
rootstocks. The difficulty we face is that the rooted cuttings do very poorly when
transferred to the field and many die. I think that it has something to do with
poor root growth and wanted to try to get the roots growing quickly after transplantation.
I believe that it would be worthwhile to try Rhizopon. The walnut industry has been
looking for a method to produce clonal rootstocks for quite some time now and it seems a
shame that we have gotten this far only to be disappointed at the end. I do not know which
concentration of Rhizoponw would be best. In general walnut is difficult to propagate and
we have been using 6000 - 8000 ppm IBA for rooting. Perhaps this will give you an idea of
what concentration would be the best to try out.
Thanks for your assistance.
Sincerely,
ES
Department of Pomology
University of California
Davis, CA 95616
Dear E
Transplanting of rooted cuttings are more easy when you stick your
cuttings in plugs or small pots (containers).
To get a better result in rooting walnut cuttings we advice you to plant
the cuttings you have now available in a 10 liter container. These plants will be your
mother plants. Connect them to water and a fertilizing unit with drip-irrigation.
When the cuttings start re-rooting and the new growth starts you take out
the apical point. Now the plant will start making new young shoots.
When these shoots are hard enough you can take them as cuttings and root
them in a paper pot of other small container.
Use Rhizopon #2 or Rhizopon #3.
Harvest the cuttings from the mother plants constantly never let them grow
to old.
We hope that we give you a new stimulation for your research.
Best regards and success,
Rhizopon bv
Kees Eigenraam
To Top of Page
Topic: Rooting a Pussy
willow
Hello,
My wife and I are attempting to root several branches from a pussy
willow that belonged
to our recently departed Grandfather. We are following advice from several friends,
but I am unsure of the proper procedures.
To this point we have done the following:
Cut several branches off of the original pussy
willow
Placed them in a bucket of water in a dark, cool garage
All of the branches have developed roots below the water line, which have grown to a
length of approximately two inches.
My question is, how do we proceed from here? All of the leaves on the branches
have dried up and turned brown.
Do we cut the branches before planting, or leave them as they are?
How long should the roots be before we plant the branches?
Are there any special instructions for the planting process (how deep, how much
water, etc)?
We appreciate any help that you might be able to provide.
Sincerely,
SJ
Dear S,
If your cuttings have roots you can plant them out now. However, if after making a
scratch in the wood and finding out that there is no green then it is likely the cuttings
are no longer viable and will not grow.
Plants need light to grow if they have leaves. If the cuttings are viable then they will
soon set out new leaves and will grow.
Water roots are not the same as soil developed roots so your cuttings will take the
cuttings longer to take hold then if they had been planted.
Pussy willow likes a moist soil. You can plant the cuttings low into the soil several
inches below the level of the roots.
If the plants are not now viable you still have some chance to take new cuttings from this
years growth on the stock plant.
This time, whether you use rooting hormones or not,
- take cutting 6-8 inches long
- plant in moist media
- cover cuttings with plastic to prevent dehydration.
For some ideas for protecting the cuttings take a look at
http://www.rooting-hormones.com/rose.htm
regards,
Support Services
Hortus USA Corp
To Top of Page
|
